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Tech Tips

'08 - '15 XP/XM

  • '08-'09 XP Summit X and Everest: Upgrading to the 2010 steering post is another huge improvement in steering for the XP's. You can purchase a new 2010 steering post from your dealer. The '08-'09 post can be cut and welded to match the dimensions of the 2010 post. This can literally be done for free if you have a few hours and a mig welder. Removing the post is the hardest part. Don't attempt this if you don't have a very good understanding of how your XP comes apart and goes back together. It's not a "hard" job, there is just a lot of parts that have to be removed to access the steering post. If you plan on making the attempt here are some pics that will explain what you need to do. Steering Post
  • There are two holes on the XP's behind the shock tower that let snow in. These holes (especially the clutch side) need to be filled in with silicone. They are located where the plastic meets the aluminum. The easiest way to find them are by placing a flashlight behind the shock facing toward the back of the sled. Look inside and you will see where the light is coming through. This area allows water to get to the clutch and can make the clutch slip. You will notice that your belt leaves big black marks on the primary clutch when the belt is getting wet.
  • Drill a 1/4" hole (or slightly larger) below the primary clutch. This will allow any water to drain out of the belly pan that has entered. Without this hole water will sit on the bottom. Every time you hit a bump or whoop the water splashes up on the primary clutch and can create belt slippage. (All XP and XM)
  • If you don't have electric start....Remove your ring gear! This really is a no brainier. I know, I know there are a lot of opinions on this one. Some say "you need it for harmonic dampening". So why do the Ski-Doo hill climbers and hill cross sleds not come with a ring gear? ROTATING MASS! One pound of rotating mass is equal to 7 pounds of stationary weight. Don't believe me? Try it! It really works. My opinion is that they put it on every production sled because it is easier. Then they don't really have to worry about which ones have e-start and which ones don't. There are thousands of documented sleds without a ring gear that don't have crank failures, The torx bolts can be real pain to get out, so be prepared to use a propane torch and an air driven impact gun. (All REV and XP non-Etec models). We have found that it really doesn't make any change for E-tec model sleds. The magneto magnets are so huge that the rotating mass of the starting gear has no effect in clutching.
  • Clean your clutch often!!! The Ski-doo TRA clutches are great clutches, BUT they are prone to getting dirty and gummed up. I am not talking about spraying a little brake cleaner on the clutch faces (and walking away) or just scrubbing the clutch faces with an sos pad. You need to pull your clutch on a weekly basis (depending on how much you ride). I pull my clutch after every 100 miles or so, sometimes after every ride. Pull the clutch apart and check your arms, make sure they swing freely. If they are gummed up even a tiny bit the RPM's will fluctuate. Check the rollers to make sure there is not too much play and that they spin freely. Check the ramps to make sure there are no burs on them. Check to make sure the spring cup bushing doesn't have too much free play. And finally check the buttons and o-rings, if these are worn at all the clutch will make a ringing noise and fluctuate RPM. This process only takes about 10-15 minutes so there are no excuses. Did I mention to clean your clutch OFTEN???
  • If you are running an aftermarket muffler...or even a stock muffler for that matter, make sure the pipe - to - muffler connection is sealed. It may look like the springs are tight and everything looks good but exhaust can be leaking out. Check for places where oil has leaked out around the pipe connection. Oil leaking out means there is an exhaust leak somewhere. Another thing to check is the belly pan outlet hole. Some muffler manufactures have left a gap around the area where the muffler exits. This unsealed area can let exhaust gas back into the engine compartment. Sucking exhaust gas into the intake can be one of the major causes of bogging and sluggish performance. You will notice that you have a problem when you carve on the exhaust side and the motor starts to sputter and bog (Note: A small RPM drop 100-200 is normal when carving on the exhaust side in really deep powder because the snow causes back pressure on the exhaust system). If you see a leak, seal it up with some high temp silicone. While your at it check your Y-pipe bolts for tightness also. If they come loose (which they do on almost all Ski-doo sleds) the exhaust will leak. If your muffler doesn't seal at the belly pan...well you might have to get creative and seal the gap.
  • 2012-2015 XP/XM - Leave the clutch guard on. This actually does work to circulate air around the clutches. This works great in conjunction with my vents because the vents allow the clutch to draw cool air in. Additionally it protects the panel from being burned through by the clutches when laid on it's side.