- '15 XP/XM
Summit X and Everest: All track lengths (146,
need the Xtreme XP Suspension Upgrade kit. Visit here for full details of the
kit. Make your
'08-'09 Summit XP rear suspension perform like the 2010 sleds.
XP Summit X and Everest:
Upgrading to the 2010 steering post is another huge improvement in
steering for the XP's. You can purchase a new 2010 steering
from your dealer. The '08-'09 post can be cut and welded to
match the dimensions of the 2010 post. This can literally be
for free if you have a few hours and a mig welder. Removing
post is the hardest part. Don't attempt this if you don't
very good understanding of how your XP comes apart and goes back
together. It's not a "hard" job, there is just a lot of parts
that have to be removed to access the steering post. If you
on making the attempt here are some pics that will explain what you
need to do. Steering
- There are two holes on the XP's behind the shock
let snow in. These holes (especially the clutch side) need to
filled in with silicone. They are located where the plastic
the aluminum. The easiest way to find them are by placing a
flashlight behind the shock facing toward the back of the sled.
Look inside and you will see where the light is coming
This area allows water to get to the clutch and can make the
clutch slip. You will notice that your belt leaves big black
marks on the primary clutch when the belt is getting wet.
- Drill a 1/4" hole (or slightly larger) below the
primary clutch. This
will allow any water to drain out of the belly pan that has entered.
Without this hole water will sit on the bottom.
Every time you hit a
bump or whoop the water splashes up on the primary clutch and can
belt slippage. (All
XP and XM)
- If you don't have electric start....Remove your ring
This really is a no brainier. I know, I know there
lot of opinions on this one. Some say "you need it for
dampening". So why do the Ski-Doo hill climbers and hill
sleds not come with a ring gear? ROTATING MASS! One
of rotating mass is equal to 7 pounds of stationary weight.
Don't believe me? Try it! It really
opinion is that they put it on every production sled because it is
easier. Then they don't really have to worry about which ones
have e-start and which ones don't. There are thousands of
documented sleds without a ring gear that don't have crank failures,
torx bolts can be real pain to get out, so be prepared to use a propane
torch and an air driven impact gun. (All
REV and XP non-Etec models). We
have found that it really doesn't make any change for E-tec model
sleds. The magneto magnets are so huge that the rotating mass
the starting gear has no effect in clutching.
- Clean your clutch often!!! The Ski-doo TRA
clutches are great clutches, BUT they are prone to getting dirty and
gummed up. I am not talking about spraying a little brake
cleaner on the clutch faces (and walking away) or just scrubbing
the clutch faces with an sos pad. You need to pull your
on a weekly basis (depending on how much you ride). I pull my
clutch after every 100 miles or so, sometimes after every ride.
Pull the clutch apart and check your arms, make sure they
swing freely. If they are gummed up even a tiny bit the RPM's
will fluctuate. Check the rollers to make sure there is not
too much play and that they spin freely. Check the ramps to
make sure there are no burs on them. Check to make sure the
spring cup bushing doesn't have too much free play. And
finally check the buttons and o-rings, if these are worn at all the
clutch will make a ringing noise and fluctuate RPM. This
process only takes about 10-15 minutes so there are no excuses.
Did I mention to clean your clutch OFTEN???
- If you are running an aftermarket muffler...or even a
for that matter, make sure the pipe - to - muffler connection is
It may look like the springs are tight and everything looks
but exhaust can be leaking out. Check for places where oil
leaked out around the pipe connection. Oil leaking out means
there is an exhaust leak somewhere. Another thing to check is
belly pan outlet hole. Some muffler manufactures have left a
around the area where the muffler exits. This unsealed area
exhaust gas back into the engine compartment. Sucking exhaust
into the intake can be one of the major causes of bogging and sluggish
performance. You will notice that you have a problem when you
carve on the exhuast side and the motor starts to sputter and bog
(Note: A small RPM drop 100-200 is normal when carving on the exhaust
side in really deep powder because the snow causes backpressure on the
exhaust system). If you see a leak, seal it up with some high
silicone. While your at it check your Y-pipe bolts for
also. If they come loose (which they do on almost all Ski-doo
sleds) the exhaust will leak. If your muffler doesn't seal at
belly pan...well you might have to get creative and seal the gap.
- Leave the clutch guard on. This actually does work to
air around the clutches. This works great in conjuction with
vents because the vents allow the clutch to draw cool air in.
Additionally it protects the panel from being burned through
the clutches when laid on it's side.